Logbooks:
NZ 2014-15 Part 3: North Island
ANZAC Dawn Service Russell, Bay of Is, NZ
| Date: | April 24, 2015, 8:01 p.m. |
There are very few things that will get me out of a warm bed at 5am, night-watches on passage, anchor alarms and the Dawn Service on ANZAC day. In spite of the increasingly wintery weather which has us itching to head north, this morning was rather nice and *relatively* warm. Which may have helped bolster the very respectable turn out at the Russell RSA.
It was quite moving to have our national anthem sung by a country that has been so very accommodating to us and it seemed rather fitting to share this commemoration of the ANZAC alliance in the final days of our New Zealand leg.
Back in Opua, Bay of Is, NZ
| Date: | April 22, 2015, 2:06 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 18.66 S, 174 7.96 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
We finally got back in the water and are up in Opua, Bay of Islands. The awesome team at Norsand Whangarei even came in on a Saturday (11th April) to launch us, it is a very busy time of year as all the boats are trying to get ready to flee the increasingly wintery weather. Whangarei has become a international boating mecca due to it's compact but complete facilities, you need to book well in advance these days. It is really terrific to be afloat again. We would have liked to hang around Whangarei and socialise with a couple of friends down there but there was a nasty weather front coming through on Sunday night so we decided to take advantage of some too-good-to-be-true sailing conditions and immediately set off on an overnight sail to Russell. We had the most terrific passage, night sailing in good conditions is one of life's most magical of pleasures. Flat seas and a gentle breeze pushed us along at almost 7knots most of the way to Cape Brett. While a cloudless sky, bright moon and shooting stars made for a lovely backdrop. Although we were bone-tired from the last month working on the hardstand it was positively invigorating. Mark definitely made the right call and we anchored in near Russell in the wee hours.
We shifted around to our favourite bad weather spot at Orongo Bay just South of Russell in the daylight and bunkered down for a few days of nasty weather. It was well timed really, as we needed some recovery days after all the physical work and long hours. Mark's birthday was a subsequently a very quiet affair which was exactly what he wanted at the time.
We had the surprise pleasure of being joined by some family friends just as we had managed to get the boat (mostly) back together and were lucky to have good conditions for a couple of days out in the Islands. Motorua Island had the best anchorages for the conditions and the walking trails are really nice so we mostly hung out there. No luck with the fishing though.
After a few more days at Russell we have moved around to Opua, Mark is busy with some work on the software and I have been getting us provisioned, paperworked and prepared for passaging. We were hoping to be headed off to Australia by now but a late season of unsettled conditions has kept us here. Right now the East coast of Australia is copping a beating and once that system passes over us in NZ we may have a good chance to get going. Fingers crossed.
For now we have a stunning day and Mark & I took a little break to play with our new Stand Up Paddleboard which we won in a competition from our dinghy manufacturer (Highfield Boats). It is a great board, inflatable with all the bells and whistles. Neither of us had ever tried SUP-ing before though we've seen many of the other cruisers partaking. It is terrific fun and it feels like you are going for a stroll through the moored boats, stopping to chat to friends on their boats along the way. We are totally hooked and are looking forward to doing it a lot more, well before we head into the Crocodile infested waters of North Australia anyway...
Road Trip: Pt 6 North Island
| Date: | March 16, 2015, 12:16 a.m. |
With Super-Cyclone Pam bearing down on Vanuatu and a prediction for it to march on towards NZ we had to wind up our road touring to get back to Tuuletar. So we did not get to enjoy Wellington or several other places we'd like to have visited. We did however have time for one day in Rotorua. Between the prices and the sulphuric air our eyes were constantly watering but the trip to Wai-o-tapu to see NZ's most active thermal area was pretty cool. The thermal activity is mesmerising (albeit rather stinky) and the colours created by the various minerals are more vivid than you would ever imagine.
Our bus broke down about an hour outside of Auckland late on Friday night, this turned out to be very fortuitous for us as it was right near where some dear family friends of Cat's lived that we'd hoped to visit. So we were rescued from the side of the highway and were able to have a great morning catching up with them. It came at the cost of catching up with some Auckland based friends but we've not given up on seeing them just yet.
Arriving back at the boat late at night we immediately began the process of getting cyclone ready. The wind had not yet picked up and the rain was holding off so we had arrived in good time. We helped with some of the other boats around the yard but the efficient Norsand team had done most of the preparation work several days ago, particularly anchoring down the big catamarans. By midday the rain set in, though thankfully not nearly as heavily as predicted. We watched the wind reach 40 knots over night but never saw the expected 55 knots and are very grateful for the no-blow. This morning is a clear blue day with moderate winds so there is no excuse not get back on the tools...
Road Trip: Pt 5 Hokitika to Picton
| Date: | March 15, 2015, 11:06 a.m. |
After enjoying seeing the west coast so much at Haast, we decided to zag back across the country to see Hokitika, Greymouth, Westport and the Paparoa National Park (Pancake Rocks). We also got to drive through Arthurs Pass to do this leg which was beautiful. Finally at Hokitika we found whitebait fritters on the menu and we enjoyed their delicate flavour the traditional way. The black volcanic sand is covered in driftwood and the locals have been creative making dozens of sculptures along the beach.
At Greymouth we lamented not sailing in under the calm conditions we would have had for this infamous bar crossing but it was the terrific surf breaks we found at Westport that really had Mark pining to redo the leg. The unexplained pancake rocks were far more extensive than we expected and we enjoyed the walk after so much driving. As the light faded we made it to pretty Murchison, we were booked in at the Lazy Cow which was a terrific joint bursting with hospitality and personality.
In the habit of early rising we encountered a group of mountain bike riders our parents age who were also staying at the Cow. On this misty morning they were about to go ascend a gruelling mountain. Feeling impressed and inadequate we wished them a great ride and set off to see a little of the Able Tasman National park. The mist lifted to reviel another perfect blue sky under which to enjoy the golden sands and inviting swimming beaches. It was easy to see why this park is home to the most popular of New Zealand's great walks. The bays were glassy clam in spite of the 25 knots of wind out on the Cook Strait.
The little area at Mapua's wharf was touristy but delightful all the same. With plenty of options for the foodies and some cool little galleries. After lunch we headed off to see Nelson and Pelorus bridge on the way to Picton.
We boarded the evening ferry to Wellington. It was like being on a cruise ship in spite of the mere 3 hour journey. The rain set in just as we set off and we enjoyed the sail down huge Queen Charlotte Sound with bottle of wine and a nice hot dinner as it began to get dark. Captain Mark could not help but follow our course on his Navigation software but was certainly enjoying armchair sailing for a change.
Thee only downer was at the other end when we decided to catch a taxi. It cost us an alarming $20 for 2km and about 2 minutes in the car! That is $600 per hour! Unbelievable, the meter was moving so fast it looked cartoonish. We watched on in horror as it dawned on us why the local were so very quick to offer you a lift and had always dissuaded us from catching a cab here in the past. How the average New Zealander ever manages to afford one is beyond us.
Road Trip: Pt 4 Aoraki to the Banks Peninsular
| Date: | March 15, 2015, 10:45 a.m. |
As we left the National Park and made for the East coast we decided to check out Timaru, we had some friends based their but had not remembered to bring their details so had to settle for lunch in a historic building turned pub. As we drove through the plains we were amazed at the extent of agriculture, which had extended up surprisingly high in the alps. Akaroa and Banks Peninsular were also extensively farmed. We explored the pretty little french settlement and continued with a hilly drive around to see the bays and farmland. The Lonely Planet came up with 'absurdly beautiful' for this patch of the world.
Road Trip: Pt 3 Mt Cook/Aoraki
| Date: | March 15, 2015, 10:12 a.m. |
On sunday we headed on to Mt Cook/Aoraki, the weather was again terrific and we enjoyed an unimpeeded view of the mountain along Lake Pukaki. The walk to the base of the Hooker glacier is very well developed and maintained. The experience was like walking through a series of high quality postcards except the the NZ sun is surprisingly brutal. It was such a relief to round a the corner and get hit with a blast of cold glacial air and what a view.
The sight of the silver lake with its sparking icebergs at the base of the glacier and mountain was as impressive as we'd been promised. We had a better day of visibility than the official photographer of the brochure.
Early the next sunny morning we headed around to see the Tasman glacier. As beautiful as the sight was it is heartbreaking and rather sobering to see how far the glacier has retreated.
Road Trip: Pt 2 Queenstown to Wanaka via Haast
| Date: | March 15, 2015, 9:32 a.m. |
An early start for a drive to Wanaka with a brief stop at what the Lonely Planet called 'exceedingly quaint' Arrowtown. It was a delightful little spot and well worth the small detour for its smart little streets of modest gold rush era buildings and the preserved historic settlement. On from there the drive through the Crown ranges was stunning and we seemed lucky enough to be going against the traffic, avoiding the line up behind the plethora of camper vans marching back South.
Arriving much earlier than planned at Wanaka and our accommodation at Lake Hawea (right over looking the lake thank you very much!) We decided not to waste the terrific weather and long hours of sunshine so continued to the Haast pass and West Coast, 'intensely scenic' according to the LP. We made a couple of stops for some of the short tramps to see Tolkienesk rivers and forests. Approaching the Haast pass felt like coming home to Fiordland as the landscape morphed around us. The West Coast of the South Island has such a different feel and it felt damn good to be back in one of our favourite places. Walking onto the wild, woolly beach at Haast on a fine day we were taken by surprise by a huge swell pounding the endless beach. We stopped to enjoy a terrific meal at the Cray Pot in Jackson Bay at the end of the West Cost Highway and had fun interacting with locals in a place more raw and genuine. It was a big day of driving due to a last minute decision to press on but it was entirely worthwhile.
The drive back through the pass was lovely in the low light and the roads now quiet with the other tourists tucked up at camp or in accommodation. We did however chance upon a Taiwanese couple with a flat tyre and gave them a quick hand. Even so, with the late daylight saving hours we made it back to Lake Hawea just as dusk settled and with only a couple of sandfly bites.
Road Trip: Pt 1 Christchurch to Queenstown
| Date: | March 15, 2015, 8:46 a.m. |
We snuck away for a quick inland trip to see the highlights of NZ that we've missed. A short flight to Christchurch, our first flight and our first sleep on land in over a year. It made us instantly miss the boat and realise how accustomed to the lifestyle we've become. The bustle and competitiveness of this style of travel was a bit of a shock to the system. Nevertheless we really enjoyed a quiet afternoon wander around Christchurch which helped us to comprehend the scale of the earthquake. Four years on the very first new significant buildings are only now being completed and what should be a dense city centre features gaping wounds. We even happened upon a group practising for the Te Matatini National Kapa Haka competition (Maori cultural festival) who sounded amazing even though they were just singing 'softly' to preserve their voices.
It is heartening to see how the city has embraced public art and all the fun temporary infill projects that create community in the rubble. It must be frustrating to see the slow pace of rebuild for Christchurchians but the infill projects show the resilience and in many cases a great sense of fun. It was a very enjoyable experience and will be interesting to see how the city reforms itself in a more permanent manner. One suspects many of the great temporary fixtures will endure.
The next day we hopped on a bus for a very scenic trip up to Queenstown via the impossibly blue Lake Tekapo. We arrived at one of the most impressive hostels we'd ever seen (Haka Lodge) and had a chilled out evening soaking up the buzzing atmosphere. A typical alpine tourist village aside from the fact that it was as busy in summer as it would be in winter and the lakeside setting is most spectacular. We had fun meeting some trampers and learning more from them about the great walks.
Still hard at work....
| Date: | March 2, 2015, 9:44 a.m. |
Got the sewing machine working nicely and have knocked up a new staysail cover, mended the mizzen and sewn a couple of other small projects. Mark has made some cabinetry to replace plastic storage that is deteriorating and has been working on the rudder, prop & shaft. I have also begun the painfully slow job of cleaning out the caulking on the teak where a bad batch of sikaflex failed. So.Much.Fun.
On the hard at Whangarei
| Date: | Feb. 20, 2015, 3:54 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 44.33 S, 174 20.85 E |
After 14 incredible months, we owe Tuuletar some TLC. We have hauled the boat out of the water for antifouling and maintenance, we are really happy with the state of her hull. To explain for the non-boaties, this process, usually done every 24 months, is like painting your house meets an automotive tune up meets an intensive spa treatment for your boat, only we are the ones getting covered in paint, oil and rubbing the bunions... and you thought it was all rum cocktails on the beach.
We are looking forward to getting a few big maintenance items crossed off the list over the next month and if we get all our chores done maybe a quick driving tour to see some of the middle of NZ.
Whangarei
| Date: | Feb. 17, 2015, 12:02 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 43.72 S, 174 20.05 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
We spent yesterday touring around Port Fitzroy and quickly seeing the sights, we caught up with some friends but ran out of time to see others and spent the night in Oneura Bay ready for an early start today. We are heading in now to Riverside Drive Marina and had to get here in time to negotiate bridge opening and tides times. Fingers crossed we have all our calculations correct.
We've had a lovely motor-sail in calm conditions and made very good time with the bonus highlight of a 4m+ Manta Ray, summersaulting next to us as it fed on plankton. We even spent time today doing a test deploy of the drogue in preparation for longer passaging.
Wairahi Bay, Great Barrier Island
| Date: | Feb. 15, 2015, 12:52 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 12.26 S, 175 20.45 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Today we motored up past the Bryde's Whales and Gannet colony on the SW side of Mahuki Island and then through the Man O War passage into the Port Fitzroy harbour. We have enjoyed seeing many old cruising friends and making a few new ones. Smokehouse bay made for a very cool visit, the facilities are terrific and a really great experience but there was a bit of a line so we may try them out tomorrow.
Graveyard Bay, Whangaparara, Great Barrier Island
| Date: | Feb. 13, 2015, 10:04 p.m. |
| Position: | 36 14.98 S, 175 23.46 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
After a rolly passage in otherwise lovely conditions we anchored at beautiful Great Barrier Island early yesterday afternoon. Vern discovered the Kayak and we've barely seen him since.
Huruhi Harbour, Great Mercury Is
| Date: | Feb. 12, 2015, 9:11 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 36.29 S, 175 46.84 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
After a lumpy start we had a nice sail out to Great Mercury Island. On our trip to shore we ran into sheep and some Archeology students amongst the stunning scenery. We however were spoilt with our own personal archeology tour guide as one of our guest knew all the fascinating history and significant spots. We even managed to dodge all the little showers and stay perfectly dry in spite of the todays cloudy sky which we have dubbed 'New Zealand Blue.'
Whitianga, Coromandel Peninsula
| Date: | Feb. 9, 2015, 12:26 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 50.19 S, 175 42.71 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
After morning spend exploring some little sea caves and arches we have just re-moored back at Whitianga. Tomorrow we drop Mark's parents back and may hang around to sit out a forecasted big swell, such a nice spot.
ADD: Heading out to the Mercury Is & Great Barrier Is on the way back to Whangarei with friends Lynne & Vern aboard (12/02/15)
Hahei Beach, Coromandel Peninsula
| Date: | Feb. 8, 2015, 12:24 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 50.33 S, 175 48.68 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Enjoyed beautiful sunny conditions today so we headed around early to Cathedral Cove. it was quite spectacular and well worth the visit. We were grateful for the early start as the crowds really built up a couple of hours later on this, the last day of the long weekend. After lunch we had a nice sail around to Hot Water beach and went ashore at mid-tide to enjoy a soak in the thermally heated water.
We were needlessly worried that we would not find the small patch of heated sand where you dig a pool as the tide recedes but by the time we got there the huge crowd indicated exactly where to go. We found the perfect spot and the boys got to work digging with a pair of oars. Soon we were enjoying cold drinks in the hot spring in the company of many others with whom we shared an ever expanding pool. It was a terrifically fun social afternoon and our new friends helped us get the dingy over the surf and back out to the boat. In the late afternoon we moved up to Hahei beach and enjoyed dinner on the back deck as the locals paddled past and said hello.
Cooks Bay, Coromandel Peninsula
| Date: | Feb. 7, 2015, 12:23 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 50.07 S, 175 44.93 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
After a morning wander around the Whitianga markets we headed for a cruise around ending up in Cooks Bay, nice to be out and about.
Whitianga, Coromandel Peninsula
| Date: | Feb. 4, 2015, 10:58 p.m. |
| Position: | 36 50.19 S, 175 42.71 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
The Natives paddled out to greet us at Whitianga, OK so they were in colourful fibreglass kayaks and were old family friends of Cat's, but hey it was still a very special welcome. After a night in the great little marina we have now moved to an adjacent mooring, courtesy of our generous local contacts. There is a bit of a blow coming through so we will hang out here for a couple of days with Mark's parents aboard.
Whitianga is a lovely town with everything you need a short walk away. The entry makes for a spectacular sail in, with light coloured cliffs sculpted into undulating forms by wind and water, contrasted against the green foliage and turquoise waters. We enjoyed some amazing Indian from 'Sangam' after a local tip-off and did a little restocking. We are very much looking forward to seeing our first NZ farm this afternoon as we catch up with our friends.
Anchored in Opito Bay, Coromandel Peninsula
| Date: | Feb. 3, 2015, 3:31 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 43.01 S, 175 48.10 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Had a lovely sail up over the Coromandel this morning. With the tide going with us we were cruising at 7-8kts over the top of Cape Colville in flat water. The westerlies started picking up as we neared the northern head of Mercury Bay into Whitianga. We weren't so keen on motoring straight into it so we decided to drop the pick here for the night and motor the last 7nm tomorrow morning when the winds have calmed down a bit.
A light swell makes it in to the bay but it was a fairly comfortable anchorage and the holding was good. It is a pretty spot with a nice long beach and apparently a neat walk up the hill on the Southern end for some stunning views.
Man O War Bay, Waiheke Island
| Date: | Feb. 2, 2015, 10:06 p.m. |
| Position: | 36 47.15 S, 175 9.64 E |
Yesterday the weather fined up and we moved around to Man O War Bay. We picked up Bill from Liberation and went ashore to check out the Winery, which is right on the beach. The reds were some of the best we've had in NZ but we settled on a bottle of Sauvignon in the hot summery weather to enjoy with the view of our own yachts. There were a few other boats starting to fill the bay and we got a nice surprise visit from some Swiss cruisers we had befriended in Fiji. Today the forecast has held so we are making an early start (for us) in order to catch favorable tides to round Cape Colville on our way to Whitianga
Huse Bay, Waiheke Island
| Date: | Feb. 1, 2015, 2 p.m. |
| Position: | 36 46.53 S, 175 10.87 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Enjoying a surprise catch up with Liberation. We struggled to set the anchor in the center of the bay but had no trouble in the mud at the Eastern end
Putiki Bay, Waiheke Island
| Date: | Jan. 25, 2015, 9:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 48.55 S, 175 1.93 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
We picked up our Aucklander friends, Chris & Jonathan from Matiatia Bay yesterday. On the way bay to the South coast of the Island we decided to join the hoards of boats fishing around a hole but succeeded only in cleaning a few hooks. Instead we roasted a chicken and enjoyed a stunning evening in Putiki Bay.
This morning we took the dingy to a boat ramp on a point near Ostend and enjoyed an easy walk to Stonyridge Vineyard. Is is a lovely setup there, a good DJ was on and we chose to lounge under the olive trees instead of crowding into the popular restaurant. Everything was really nice but admittedly the wine did not knock our socks off. Lucky for us a toss of the coin took us left down the path to Obsidian Vineyard where the wines were terrific, all local and extensive in variety, not to mention great value. Next we totted back up the hill to enjoy some tapas at Miro - try the divine roast Kalamata Olives! After late afternoon wander down Onetangi Beach we managed to crowd onto the local bus which took us back to the dingy. The day had gotten warmer and warmer and even enticed our guests in for an early evening swim. A half hour ferry ride from Auckland it is easy to see why this Island full of Vineyards and beaches is such a popular spot, especially on this sunny long weekend.
Huruhi Bay, Waiheke Island
| Date: | Jan. 24, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 47.88 S, 175 0.64 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
We had the most fantastic day, after hiking the volcano at Rangitoto Island in the morning (Lava caves were a big highlight) we came back to the boat and had a perfect 15-knot northerly wind. We were able to sail off anchor and had a fantastic 1.5-hour sail around to Waiheke Island using no fuel at all. We went for a hike in the afternoon to try to find Mudbrick vinyard but got terribly lost trying to find a path through to the road from the beach. By the time we discovered it it was too late but we had a nice walk anyway. Not so nice was the long muddy trek out to the water lugging the dingy, like being back in darwin!
Back out at Islington Bay
| Date: | Jan. 23, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 47.21 S, 174 53.87 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Motored back out here against a solid 20-25kts of easterlies. We really should have gone up the river to Herald Island for the night... but stubbornness got the best of us. At least we got to give the motor a good run and charged the batteries. We're keen to do the walk to the top of the volcano here.
Auckland, Westhaven Marina
| Date: | Jan. 21, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 50.24 S, 174 44.74 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
We got a berth in Westhaven Marina, the largest marina in the southern hemisphere, from the 18th to the 22nd (4 nights). Ken from Astrolabe who met me just a few berths down from us was going out for an overnight sail with some friends and loaned us his BMW! It was great and we managed to do some provisioning, Bunnings-runs and pick up some hardware that we had been unable to get for a while (like $150 worth of Jubilee-clamps).
Islington Bay
| Date: | Jan. 17, 2015, 10:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 47.21 S, 174 53.87 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Calm conditions meant we had to hoist the Iron sail to get down to the Hauraki Golf. The water was like sheet of blue satin for most of the day apart from when a boisterous pod of dolphins joined us for a few miles. One of them jumped clean out of the water several times and was eye to eye with us. We hung around with a few fizz boats near some rocks to give snapper fishing a go but the big ones evaded us. Kawau Island was where we spent last night and we were amazed at how many houses where dotted around the shoreline. With no roads, each had their own jetty access and as it was a fine Friday the Auckland crowd had begun to descend upon it. We enjoyed a drink and bit of food at the new Kawau Boating Club (in the old Yacht Club building) which was pleasantly full.
After an Iron sail start we were treated to some perfect sailing conditions and managed to have our full rig on display for our Whangaparaoa based friends. We had to dodge a tonne of traffic on the way in, every man and his dog was hitting the water in these great conditions. We dropped the pick at Te Haruhi Bay to have fish and chips for lunch on the beach with Bill & Hazel of Liberation who we became friends with in Fiji. Great food, average wine, great company, well two out of three ain't bad. We are going to have to hit Waiheke island to address the wine problem. Lucky for us the next couple of weeks forecast is looking ideal.
We are now tucked up in Islington Bay, we could not believe our eyes when we rounded the marker, it looks like Sydney Harbour on NYE! We are booked into Westhaven Marina tomorrow and look forward to catching up with Auckland based friends over the next couple of days.
Te Haruhi Bay
| Date: | Jan. 17, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 37.08 S, 174 49.45 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Stopped briefly for lunch with our Fiji friends Bill and Hazel from Liberation.
Kawau Island
| Date: | Jan. 15, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 36 25.13 S, 174 49.58 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Anchored off Stockyard Bay at the northern head of the entrance to Bon Accord Bay. Took a dinghy ride around to have drinks and a light dinner at the new Kawau Boating Club. Very nice location.
Urquharts Bay
| Date: | Jan. 14, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 50.74 S, 174 31.90 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Last night at the Poor Knights we happened to meet some locals in a fizz-boat that were heading home to Auckland. Steve Hathaway was a professional underwater videographer from 93 Percent and Young Ocean Explorers. We had a really fun evening learning about his work and realising that we have seen some of the documentaries that use his Orca footage in the past. As they were roughing it due to their trailer breaking down in The Bay of Islands, we invited them to raft up and have dinner, we had a fresh Albacore rendang curry on rice and two of the three ended up sleeping in our saloon.
This morning they took us around to some of the best diving spots in the islands and even did a dive in the worlds largest sea cave with full-on professional lights and the works which was pretty cool.
After a pretty intense session with them we had lunch and decided to head back towards Tutukaka or Marsden Cove, whichever the wind let us do. The winds were light and backing to the east so we managed to motor-sail and lay Bream Head. We had full sails and motoring along so we averaged 7 knots which is pretty good now considering how dirty our hull is. We just dropped anchor in Urquarts Cove with many other boats. We may be here for a day or two while we wait for some northerlies to make the 30nm down to Kawau Island or push all the way to Auckland.
Add:
In the evening high tide we noticed a bunch of fizz-boats hanging closely around us, with the spyglasses we realised they were bringing up bags of Scallops! Mark wanted to check the state of the hull anyway so he suited up and I convinced him to free dive down 11m below us to have a quick check for Scallops, he was very dubious. A minute later he came up sputtering with laughter, they were everywhere and a few breaths later he easily found enough for dinner within the generous legal limits over here. Just the thing to perk you up again after the come-down from leaving the Poor Knights.
Poor Knight Islands
| Date: | Jan. 13, 2015, 9:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 28.52 S, 174 44.18 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
After a lovely sail and some successful fishing the wind died just as we reached the Poor Knights. They are quite spectacular and we are very glad to have had the weather to enjoy them. As we did not get up quite as early as hoped the place was packed with dozens of boats dropping hundreds of day trippers at various spots. We decided to go it alone anchoring in front of The Nursery dive site. Before we had even managed to anchor huge Snapper and Kingfish began schooling under the boat, their over friendly nature leads me to wonder how many people must disregard the 'do not feed the fish' request.
We took the dingy for a spin to go and see Rikoriko cave, reputedly the worlds largest sea cave... there were five other vessels in there at the time. We could have fit Tuuletar in as well if only the entry was a little taller, it is an amazingly huge volume and several large tourist and fishing launches toured around inside. The acoustics are fantastic, apparently there have been concerts held in there. The water clarity was the biggest surprise and even in the low light we could clearly see the bottom though it was at least 15 metres deep.
After that we went and free dived and snorkelled around Nursery Cove. The fish make you feel like rock stars as they fearlessly crowd in on you, we had an entourage of Snapper and colourful Wrasse who stayed with us for the whole swim. It was interesting to see the different seaweed and kelp but the huge variety of fish is I guess why this place is so well regarded. The volcanic origins also make for some spectacular structures both in and out of the water and we had fun swimming through El Torito Cave in the company of Blue Maomao and a Kingfish nearly as long as me.
The day trippers are all gone and we are able to hear the birdsong, we feel quite privileged to enjoy the place to ourselves this evening.
Tutukaka (Pacific Bay)
| Date: | Jan. 12, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 37.01 S, 174 32.10 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
It was only a short 30-40 minute motor down the coast (3-4nm) to get to Tutukaka harbour. We decided to anchor in Pacific Bay just near Philip Island and then took the dinghy into the marina to check out the place. It is a nice little boat-oriented town with everything focussed around the marina. We looked at prices to go with a dive-company out to the world-famous Poor Knights Islands for some diving but it was just too expensive for what you got. They wouldn't even fill out tanks due to NZ regulations requiring us to have them checked in NZ... welcome back to Oz/NZ.
So we write this now as we are sailing along in a lovel 15kts southerly breeze towards the Poor Knights Islands. The weather is settled enough that we should be able to anchor there for a night or two and then hopefully sail back down towards Marsen Cove (Whangarei).
We have two half-tanks so we should be able to do a short and shallow dive somewhere and there are lots of good snorkeling spots too apparently. That is probably all we will be able to manage in the cold water anyway.
Matapouri
| Date: | Jan. 11, 2015, 1:47 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 33.67 S, 174 30.62 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Due to the calm conditions we were able to stop at this gorgeous little seaside town and visit with some new friends. We are anchored in the shallows off the North end of the beach not far from the Mermaid Pools which are as pretty as that sounds. We got to visit a New Zealand 'Batch' (akin to the Aussie beach shack.) Learnt how to smoke mussels and even better got to eat them with homemade bread, salad and fruit proving that the simple things in life are often the best. The water was so clear and calm we could see little crabs on the bottom and for the first time in NZ, we enjoyed swimming without wetsuits.
We will hop down to Tutukaka shortly in search of supplies as the crowds in the Bay of Islands had completely cleaned out the stores! We have been watching the horizon and marvelling at the endless procession of boats migrating back South, in these very light winds there must be a lot of fuel being used to get them back to work on time. We are starting to understand why it has been so hard to find space in marinas over here.
Whangaruru harbour
| Date: | Jan. 10, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 21.92 S, 174 21.41 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Fortunately the sea had settled the next day and we motored south in very calm conditions to Whangaruru harbour. The harbour is beautiful, extensive and shallow so you can anchor pretty much anywhere much like the Bay of Islands. At this time of year it is quite busy though with tents covering almost all of the beach area and every manner of fizz-boat out on the water. Jet-skis, wakeboarding etc.
We anchored in what seemed to be the calmest spot and took a dinghy ride across the bay to Oakura settlement to get some veggies although there turned out to be not much in the store other than bread, bait and ice-cream. No problem! What more do you need?
Whangamumu harbour
| Date: | Jan. 9, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 14.98 S, 174 17.81 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Around midday we left Deep Water Cove and headed out towards Cape Brett motoring into about 15kts of wind. We stopped for a while to have a look at the famous "Hole in the Rock" which we could barely see for all the tour boats.
The last 5nm to Whangamumu Harbour was horrible as the tide and residual swell, wind and reflected swell from the rocks made for a very rough hour or so. At least it was short. As we had been in the calm Bay of Islands for over a month now we had become lazy with stowing things and stuff went flying everywhere. Welcome back to cruising.
Whangamumu harbour is lovely however we should have put a stern-anchor out to hold us facing towards the entrance. The swell that managed to make it in was almost unnoticeable but it was the perfectly correct frequency to resonate with our boat and make us roll around heavily throughout the night. When we first arrived we were facing towards the entrance and it was lovely but of course the wind would swing to put us side-on throughout the night.
We had a wander around the old whaling station and up to the little waterfall, on the way back we crossed paths with the couple from the yacht anchored next to us who were heading up there for a soak in the pool. It's a very picturesque spot and after the incredible crowds in the Bay of Islands we were surprised to only be sharing it with two other boats.
Deep Water Cove
| Date: | Jan. 7, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 11.58 S, 174 18.25 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
Yesterday we didn't get very far from Opua on account of the growth that we had on the bottom and prop after sitting stationary for nearly 4 weeks in the muddy rich waters of Russell and Opua. It probably didn't help that we were anchored right next to an oyster-processing barge in Russell.
We were only making about 3.5 knots out of the bay and I was worried about the stress that it was putting on the engine and transmission as the prop wasn't perfectly balanced due to the growth. On top of that we were motoring against the wind and tide which would have slowed us down to nearly nothing at Tapeka Point north of Russell. So we pulled into our favourite spot in Matauwhi Bay (near the oyster barge on the southern side).
This morning I got up early and started the slow motor around to clear-water off Roberton Island. We dropped the pick for an hour or two while I jumped over and cleaned the prop and a LOT of growth on the bottom. We will be in deperate need of a haul-out when we haul out in Whangarei in February... and I suspect I will have to do this another 1-2 times before then.
After the clean-off we were back on track motoring at around 6 knots at 900rpm and everything sounded much happier for it. We just dropped anchor in Deep Water Cove and its is a fantastic day with clear skies. We're thinking we'll head out to try and dive the Canterbury wreck.
It looks like it will get a little windy tomorrow so we're thinking of staying here and heading further south again on Friday.
Add:
As we were heading out to dive the HMNZS Canterbury we stopped at a boat to check in for safety purposes and ended up chancing upon an ex-dive instructor who wanted to come with us. The rest of his family were not divers so while he was happy to dive alone he did not want to inconvenience them, we were very pleased to have a third, very experienced, buddy along for our first wreck dive.
The visibility was pretty average which added to the drama as the ship emerged from the depths. The crew at the Pahia dive shop have been really helpful explaining a fun and safe route, even showing us a map. We were very grateful for that as it made the dive less daunting. It was quite a buzz, there are a load of fish and some great patches of colourful coral and kelp developing. It is considered a new wreck as it was sunk in 2007 but we enjoyed seeing it in that state. The ship has not yet been overgrown but it is easy to imagine how it will be with all the life already thriving down there.
Heading South - Leaving Opua
| Date: | Jan. 6, 2015, 6:36 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 18.80 S, 174 7.63 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
After a few weeks waiting for parts to arrive for the engine cooler. We are heading off from Opua now to make our way towards Auckland. Good to be on the move again.
Bay of Is. 19th-31st Dec
| Date: | Jan. 1, 2015, 1:47 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 16.49 S, 174 7.66 E |
| Track to here: | Download |
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
A quiet time for us, we have been enjoying the delights of Russell and making new friends as we hang out and wait for engine parts. The weather has been very un-summery but fairly calm which means we have been able to enjoy quick dingy trips to Opua and Paihia.
Christmas was a very relaxing affair for onboard Tuuletar this year. While we were unable to join any of the cruiser parties we were invited to, the local dolphins brought the party to us putting on quite a display right under and around us when we got up this morning. It's impossible not to smile at their exuberant acrobatics and a lovely way to start the day.
I have been making a mess getting to know the lovely vintage sewing machine that came with the boat. It has an almighty Zig Zag that is performing beautifully and will be terrific for canvas & sail but the straight stitch is misbehaving so I am working through that.
We found ourselves accidentally anchored in the perfect spot to observe the New Years Eve fireworks and despite getting started a little too early on the celebrations we were still awake to enjoy them, just. it was not quite Sydney Harbour but we very much enjoyed it all the same and we had a lot to toast to after ticking off several bucket list items in 2014.
We finally managed to coax our package out of NZ customs and should be able to pick it up tomorrow. So, 2015 should commence with a day spent in the engine room, how appropriate!
Christmas catch-up letter to friends who's email contacts I lack
| Date: | Dec. 20, 2014, 1:24 p.m. |
We hope this finds you well and enjoying the company of loved ones and/or some great adventures. Just two weeks ago Mark and I celebrated our first cruising anniversary. It has been a highly rewarding year and while there have certainly been some lows, the incredible highs have more than compensated. A popular sailing writer talks about the emotional peaks and troughs of this lifestyle and how our previous ‘normal’ lifestyle truncates these extremes seeming monochrome in comparison, we are now trading convenience for experience. True to this not everything has gone to plan, we certainly blew the maintenance and repairs budget but the broad idea of geographical coverage worked out really well for us. Queensland to Tasmania across to the South of New Zealand through Fiordland up to Northland and then to Fiji’s Eastern Islands and back to North NZ.
We experienced a pretty steep learning curve on a fast sail South from Queensland’s Whitsunday Islands to Sydney and were glad to have the extra assistance of Mark’s sailor-parents onboard for some of our first big blows. In Tasmania and then Fiordland we again got hit by some pretty strong weather but on each occasion we came out with a greater understanding and appreciation for our boat. The first time we lost our engine, at the top of Frazier Island, the challenge of truly sailing the infamous Great Sandy Straits turned into a really enjoyable and satisfying passage. We were very glad to have previously practiced sailing on & off anchor without the motor. Mark has ceased threatening to turn the engine into a mooring block and is almost starting to enjoy the regular ‘cuddle’ that his needy other woman requires. While traveling under sail alone is certainly preferred, we could not have enjoyed the parts of the world we have, in the way that we have, without it. He also looks 10 years younger thanks to his regular regime of soaking himself in engine oil. Through our direct experiences and the knowledge we have acquired from salty friends met along the way, we have both learnt a lot more about our engine and other boat systems, so in that regard the shakedown year has been a big success.
In late April it was tragic and rather sobering to hear of the loss of the Munetra, a small boat we had shared an anchorage and drink with in Stewart Island, NZ just a few weeks earlier. More than six months later the mother of one of the missing young german girls has begun a dialogue with us as she is trying to comprehend and process the loss. It reminds you how hard it is for those left behind particularly when blue water sailing is so foreign to some. Furthermore it makes us even more grateful for the good weather we have experienced during our major passages as well as all the friends, family and volunteer radio operators who have kept an eye on our progress.
For those of you with the time to follow our Blog you will notice we are getting slightly better at posting regular updates and photos. Mark has been working on improving the website and will soon introduce a follow button, comments and captioning on photos among other features that a few people have asked for.
Our 2014 highlights began on the very first day when we rang in the New Year on our own yacht in Sydney Harbour with a hoard of great friends and almost as many bottles of champaign, ticking off a major bucket list item and kicking off the year in style. We found Tasmania to be a highly underrated cruising destination in our opinion and we look forward to seeing more of it one day in the future. Yet it was the next stop, New Zealand’s Southland and Fiordland region that was the absolute highlight for us and we have been boring other yachties, as well as anyone else who’ll listen, to death with stories about our time there. The natural beauty of the area was spectacular as to be expected but it was the wonderful, welcoming community that really made the trip special for us. Connecting with the small network of local charter and fishing boats via Meri Leask’s Bluff Fisherman’s Radio was transformative. Southland hospitality and generosity is one of the most humbling and delightful things you could ever experience. As our first major adventure into isolated regions that unexpected support network was invaluable and it is hard to imagine we will ever experience its like again.
The Fijian ‘Bula’ spirit was another wonderful experience. The nation otherwise keeps the jewels it’s physical beauty underwater and we were lured down to see them. Now both of us have greatly improved our confidence diving and look forward to doing a lot more. Although the decidedly un-summery weather in NZ currently has temporarily dampened our enthusiasm. The friendly Bula-spirit is far more accessible and we enjoyed it almost everywhere in the country. One of our many yachting friends made over there, claimed that they were collecting pieces of each place they sailed to in order to come up with requirements for their final destination and that the Bula spirit was the latest addition to that list, well deserved in our view.
I have taken thousands of photos, the best of which I post on our blog, but my camera, or perhaps it’s operator, have been unable to capture many of the most magical moments. The bio-luminance below 40 south is a one such thing, when the boat cuts through glassy water and creates a wake entirely formed by it you can spend a night watch mesmerized. On one occasion Mark and I spent the better part of on hour, late on a chilly Tasmanian night, creating radiating fireworks by ignobly spitting into the flawless black of the North Tamar. In a sandy anchorage Dusky Sound NZ, I watched illuminated mermaids chasing underwater comets around our boat until big eyed seals pop up to shatter the illusion with a noisy breath. We have also been surrounded by hundreds of dolphins at once in a super-pod that stretched as far as the eye could see in all directions, witnessed a rainbow created by a full moon and seen countless perfect sunrises and sunsets. It would take me months of post-processing photos to create a poor facsimile of the colours of a Fijian reef and it’s delightful inhabitants. I am also of the opinion that there are many frustrated photographers and artists in New Zealand because it just does not seem possible to capture the wonderful, suffocating greeness of this place.
We are currently in the Bay of Islands in the North of New Zealand, catching up on maintenance of both boat and crew. In the New Year we should be on the move again and look forward to having a few visitors along the way. The ambitions for 2015 are a constantly evolving thing, we will most likely be in NZ until April but we will continue to update the blog site which will give the best indication of where we are for anyone with the time and inclination to join us. If we can keep the budget under control we look forward to a few more years of cruising and getting further afield. We hope you will get in touch and consider journeying with us.
Wishing you all the best for the Festive Season and a great year ahead.
With all our Love,
Cat & Mark
SV Tuuletar
Bay of Is. 7th-18th Dec
| Date: | Dec. 18, 2014, 11:51 a.m. |
The calm after the storm.
After a stunning first week of December in NZ, this last week was particularly un-summer-y. Mark and I had seen the upcoming forecast and decided to head around early to the relative protection of Russell's Matauwhi Bay. For a couple of heavy nights we were almost the only ones anchored here and the self doubt crept in... What do they know that we don't...
Mark used this as an opportunity to try out new anchoring techniques after our lovely friends on SV Always Saturday gave him a terrific book on the subject. We spent a very stable 3 nights on a Bahamian Mooring, with over 35 knots we have been less comfortable on a dock. It was quite impressive how much a stretchy rode on one of the two anchors smoothed out the drift and roll. On the third night the big blow came, another vessel reported 52 knots, we were incredibly comfortable watching the lighting show and listening to channel 16 light up with boats dragging around at Opua, we helped direct one around to a good spot over here in the middle of the night and we were very happy to have made the move around earlier.
Once things calmed down we enjoyed a nice meal and even better company at the Russell Boating Club. We have come across very few places that have the honest rustic charm of this place and I cannot convey how friendly and welcoming the locals are. After some dental surgery it was my first solid meal and Mark claims I am making up for not being able to talk for a few days. It was such a nice way to blow away the cabin fever after a boat bound week due to weather and surgical recovery. We have decided we are going to hang out a bit longer around here while we wait for the engine parts to clear customs. We do miss our cruising friends around at Opua but it is really nice here and we are keen to run the engine as little as possible for now.
Bay of Islands 23rd Nov- 6th Dec
| Date: | Dec. 6, 2014, 11:51 a.m. |
| Position: | 35 18.80 S, 174 7.63 E |
"Seriously, it's like you're photoshopped!"
New Zealand certainly knows how to turn on the charm, from friendly customs officials to over-friendly Orcas, it doesn't get much better than this place. After recovering at the bar from our ridiculously comfortable passage Mark & I spent a week enjoying some stunning weather around the Bay of Islands. Commencing with a couple of days exploring the picturesque and tasty town of Russell, with it's charming boating club. We then headed out into the Islands. We had such nice winds and calm seas that we only turned the engine on to heat up some hot water for showers. After 5 months of Fijian reefs and 3 months of unforgiving NZ Fiords prior, it's been a while since we sailed on & off anchor. There were not too many other boats about so we decided to focus on seeing some of the Bays that the guidebook suggests get very busy in the upcoming high season.
We 'tramped' all the trails on Motuarohia, Moturua and Urupukapuka Islands in an effort to rebuild wasted passage legs. Mark even ran a couple of them, though paid for that the next day as most were climbs as much as walks. After an abnormally wet winter the landscape was impossibly green and the variety of walks took us to the sites of Maori Pa's on defensible cliftops; through wetlands, bushland and fern tree forests, as well as sheep grazed hills. Boisterous Tui's kept close company with us most of the time. They were quite a sight in large numbers gathered at the first of the red Pohutukawa and the Harakeke blossoms. Mark even managed a swim but was unable to convince me it was warm enough yet and I notice he has not been back in yet despite adamantly claiming that it was lovely. At Urupukapuka Bay we sat on the back deck with a glass of NZ Sauv-Blanc and enjoyed watching a Shag teach two large chicks to catch fish right next to us in a moment that lacked only Sir Attenborough's commentary. At each turn the North Island is doing it's best to convince us it is every bit a stunning as the South in it's own special way. Hence the Emma Stone quote Mark & I keep exclaiming to each other.
As we were returning to Opua we noticed a tiny amount of oil in the raw water indicator. It seems that our engine has decided that it would like to spend a little longer in the Bay of Islands. So our migration South has been deferred for a little bit longer while we await a new heat exchanger. While a new part is a blow to the budget we are admittedly quite proud of ourselves for picking up the problem. Perhaps it is a little silly to be so chuffed but we have been cruising for exactly 1 year now and our first engine trouble as we set out 12 months ago was the catastrophic failure of a heat exchanger leaving us engineless at the top of Queensland's Great Sandy Straights. This resulted is us having to actually sail the entire length of the straights which turned into a very enjoyable challenge. It is satisfying however, to believe that we are starting to know our boat well enough that we can get onto such things earlier and minimise damage.
So as we are stuck in Opua we are making the best of it by socialising with old and new cruising friends and the over-friendly Orca's that have been in the Inlet the last two days. On Thursday a huge male with a gnarled fin taller than me nearly overturned our dingy when he popped up unexpectedly and yesterday another spat on us as Mark and I stood on the deck wondering why all the small boats were circling Tuuletar. While the pod is often seen out in the Bay, they are apparently a rare site all the way up here and a real treat to get so close to. It is as if the North Island is bringing these beautiful moments to us while we cannot get out to find them for ourselves, I feel completely spoilt.
