Marquesas Island-hopping


Date:May 4, 2014, 9:51 p.m.
Position:7 59.37 S, 140 42.37 W

Last night we departed Anaho Bay on Nuku Hiva and sailed all the way up to the deserted island of Eiao! Great sail all the way. We made an initial landing on the beach tonight and will search for an abandoned prison colony tomorrow. We're short on information about the island, as no one seems to come here, but one book claims there are "Asses of enormous size" on the island. The anchorage is comfortable and we are the only boat at Eiao! It's wild and beautiful. We will explore this place until a good wind builds to take us to the Tuamotu atolls.

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Leaving Marquesas soon.....

Date:May 2, 2014, 9:49 p.m.

We are leaving Anaho Bay soon and we are awaiting favorable winds for our sail to the Tuamotu atolls. No wind in the forecast this week, and we may sail to the deserted island of Eiao while we wait for the trades to re-establish. Great times in Anaho Bay!

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Anaho Bay

Date:April 24, 2014, 9:48 p.m.
Position:8 49.29 S, 140 3.42 W

We're anchored snug in Anaho Bay on the North side of Nuku Hiva, swimming with octopus and manta rays and exploring vast incredible ruins in the jungle here. Eating coconuts off the beach, spearfishing with friends, harvesting wild mangoes, and maintaining our beloved Privateer. Several hundred bananas swaying from the arch on three stalks gifted to us, eating mahi-mahi for dinner, hiking, snorkeling, perfectly protected anchorage. Needless to say we will remain here for a while longer!

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Hiva Oa to Ua Huka

Date:April 21, 2014, 9:46 p.m.
SOG (kts):6.0
Position:9 7.64 S, 139 23.71 W

Sailing overnight from Puamau, Hiva Oa to Bahie de Vaipee, Ua Huka. Perfect light breezes and sailing along at 6 kts under yankee and 1st reef main. Gifted several large stalks of bananas yesterday, and hiked to largest tikis in the islands at Puamau. Bid farewell to the southern islands and now will spend a week or two in the northern islands before heading onward to Tuamotus. We could easily spend a year here!

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Baie de Haniapa

Date:April 17, 2014, 9:45 p.m.
Position:9 42.51 S, 139 0.51 W

Sailed to Haniapa Bay today along the N coast of Hiva Oa. Anchored in a lush valley with fruits of all varieties. In several days we will sail for Ua Pou, and then on to Nuka Hiva where we will be able to communicate via e-mail, update journals, send pics etc. Loving life in the Marquesas and living off the land and sea. Can't wait to share more--in about one week.

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Hiva Oa

Date:April 16, 2014, 9:44 p.m.
Position:9 42.83 S, 139 0.90 W

Great sail from Hanamoenoa, to Tahuata to Hanamenu, Hiva Oa today across the Bordelais channel. On the desert side of the island--anchored up and swam in a large pool made centuries ago. Land looks like a blend of Eastern Oregon and Saudi Arabia. Hiked further inland and discovered massive ruins from the ancient civilization here. Learned to identify good coconuts and husk them in the jungle. Shark fins sighted and massive rays leaping out of the water in the bay!

--At anchor, Baie de Hanamenu

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Hanetefau, Tahuata

Date:April 11, 2014, 9:43 p.m.

Anchored up near Hapatoni at Hanetefau, Tahuata Island. Befriended by locals here and receiving incredible Polynesian hospitality! Boat loaded with more fruit than we can eat in a month, evening drives up the mountain to feed the goats, barefoot jungle explorations to ancient ruins, many new Marquesian friends teaching us how to live off the land. Mountain hiking, eating goat, Kari fighting off marriage proposals. Swimming with manta rays in the bay, snorkeling, music, getting proficient with French conversation and learning Marquesian language too! Incredible new friends with open hearts. Going full native.

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Date:April 7, 2014, 9:42 p.m.
Position:9 57.37 S, 139 7.09 W

Had a great 42-mile broad reach from Fatu Hiva to Tahuata today and are now anchored in Baie Hapatoni at Hanatefau. Fantastic snorkeling right off the boat! TONS of technicolor fish among the coral. Tomorrow we plan to explore the village on the other side of the bay and trade for fruit. Yesterday Kelse and I hiked the road from Hanavave to Omoa on Fatu Hiva and hitched a boat ride back to Privateer. Afterward hiked to Hanavave's waterfall with Kari and swam in the plunge pool with a giant eel, our daily activity. Life is swell in Fr. Poly!

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Fatu Hiva

Date:April 2, 2014, 9:41 p.m.

At anchor day 2 Fatu Hiva, Hanavave Bay. Incredible hike to waterfall, through palm trees and hibiscus forest. Deep plunge pool at waterfall, perfect swims. Trading with locals for fruit--pamplemousse, papaya, banana bunches, mangos, coconuts,limes....

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Hanavave Bay, Baie de Vierges

Date:April 1, 2014, 9:40 p.m.
Position:10 27.50 S, 138 40.05 W

We are safe in an incredibly exotic anchorage on Fatu Hiva. Totally wild place. Took a walk through the village and were gifted fresh honeycombs from the local beekeepers! We'll probably stay here for a week or's hard to believe that this is real--like being in a book almost.

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Tsunami Alert

Date:March 31, 2014, 9:38 p.m.
SOG (kts):4.4
Position:9 52.19 S, 139 0.17 W

Tsunami Alert. We are safe at sea in deep water. At 1900 local we have received an order to evacuate Atuona Harbor immediately. An 8.0 earthquake has reportedly struck the coast of Chile and generated a tsunami. A possible tsunami is scheduled to arrive at Hiva Oa at 0030-0100 local. 3 years ago a similar earthquake hit Chile and Atuona Harbor was sucked completely dry. No Thank You!! Fortunately, Privateer was already ship-shape with decks cleared for sea work when we received the orders. I am proud to report that we were the first of 13 boats to leave the harbor!

We are spending a pleasant night at sea in 8,000 foot deep waters, taking advantage of our "forced night sail" and motor-sailing to windward in very light conditions, to the island of Fatu Hiva, 40 miles distant. We should make landfall at sunrise and cannot wait to see Fatu Hiva!

We've learned an important lesson that the boat must always be ready for sea on a moment's notice, and as always, be prepared to change plans at the drop of a hat.

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First Day in Paradise

Date:March 30, 2014, 9:37 p.m.
Position:9 48.25 S, 139 1.87 W

YEP! Life is pretty sweet here in Paradise!! There's nothing more that we could ask for. Blue marlin and fresh mangoes for dinner, meeting other world cruisers who have INCREDIBLE stories, being gifted with strange delicious fruits and the Polynesians are super friendly and laid back. Almost every person--man and wahine--has incredible tattoos and we are transfixed by the island lifestyle. Clearing customs was a breeze with much laughter and smiles. There's no going back--this is the ultimate mind-warp! Viva la Marquesas! Too cool!

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